Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Artfully Chocolate Kingsbury Confections: Truffles

Bill

Truffles are at the extreme end of the flavor-punch spectrum, just past brownies.  A truffle must squeeze fine, deep, decadent flavor into a very small package.  In short, it should be awesomeness from concentrate. 

Artfully Chocolate’s truffles are the best I’ve tried in DC.  They are also the cheapest, especially with a volume discount, which is rare for truffles.  I’ll describe them in an order from divine to forgettable.


Pomegranate Royale.  This receives significant points for the creativity of the concept:  pomegranate molasses, crème de cassis, and cognac.  Mixing two alcoholic elements itself requires daring, world-class skill, and a hefty dose of trial and error.  This creation goes even further in combining that pairing with a unique treatment of the trendy pomegranate.  The result is devine.  Its creator picked the right chocolate: only slightly on the darker side.  The interaction of the three strong flavors of pomegranate, cognac, and dark chocolate, and the softer crème de cassis works.  Amazingly, you can taste all four elements.  Add this to our favorites.




Amaretto Marzipan.  This truffle is made of ground almonds and chocolate marzipan “laced” with amaretto.  That’s quite a tribute to Continental Europe.  The individual flavors were great, but their combination was not.  Amaretto, almonds, and marzipan are tame flavors.  That left only the relatively dark chocolate standing out.  However, the quality of the individual elements, and the textures of their combination make this one to try.


Black Forest.  Montmorency cherries, kirsch (a cherry liqueur), and chocolate make this truffle legitimately Germanic.  It would be popular at cafés from Munich to Vienna.  This was good but its taste didn’t match my excitement about the kirsch.  Kirsch is a unique (in the U.S.), strong element.  So, among these ingredients, it should carry the truffle.  Unfortunately, it was barely detectable.  Its minor role is equivalent to a chocolate-chip cookie with just one chip.


Hazelnut Toffee.  This was a more obvious concept that should easily have been executed better than it was.  The hazelnut flavor wasn’t even equivalent to that in a kinder bar or nutella, and I couldn’t find the toffee.  The toffee may have been inside the truffle, but if so, it was undetectable.  The crunchy items on top may have been the toffee, but they just tasted like nuts.  Skip this one.


Pumpkin Cheesecake.  This deserves some points for a seasonal, unique concept, but none for the execution.  Pumpkin and sweetened cream cheese (the base element in cheesecake) are mild flavors, so this mix only has the chocolate shell to pack a flavor punch.  It’s not surprising that this combination of those three elements basically tasted like nothing.  Skip this one, too.


1529 14th Street NW, Washington, DC 20005
(202) 387-2626

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